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Sharyn, you need to do more than just add topsoil. I would think a good compost, filled in before laying sod. A bit more expensive? Yes, but well worth it. The grass will do great with proper amendments, tilling to depth of three inches or more. Call the county extension service for recommendations.
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Send, we are having the back graded, then topsoil will be down before laying the sod.
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Just catching up here.....

Gladimhere: Saw your container garden grown when you had that as your avatar. Amazing success there! Meant to mention it, but I was distracted. The containers were like metal horse troughs? Beautiful! Was not aware you were planting so many and grouping them. Good job!

Sharyn: You ordered more Iris for your new home! Landscaping a new just built property just doesn't always take off the first time, even if you hire landscaper.
The dichondra lawn had to be replaced with St. Augustine after a year. The soil with construction debris is just so difficult, and may need several inches to feet of good topsoil, imo. Good luck on your new flower bed!

My goal is to ask hubs to take out and discard the dead Cape Honeysuckle that died in the heat. There is another one just taking off, growing green, and huge!
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GA my avatar is what I mean by rocky. Lol!! There is some cement pieces but it is rocky as in River bed rocky.
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Sharyn, I don't specifically recall what the swamp area was filled with - sand mostly, I think. I bought a lot of those big peat bags and added them with the compost.

Are you saving the rocks from your land? I found some big concrete chunks at the back of my yard; I suspect they were left over after the builder finished his concrete work and it was easier to just bury them than haul them out. No problem; they became the border for my woodland garden.

My father told me that decades ago that's where developers as well as homeowners buried some of their trash - at the end of the property. I did find some very small bottles which I believe were some kind of medicine bottle.
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Wow GA, you didn't have any peat?? My area was all farm land. Plus it is super rocky.  The snake river is 23 miles down the road from us.  Everything I saw online says this area is either loam/silt or clay/loam.  It is going to an experience with this soil for sure, lol!!
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The developer who built my house back in the last century only graded the house and immediate yard; it was all clay - lots and lots of double digging and adding amendments.

The garden area was a different story. That area, for the rest of the block, was originally a swamp that was filled in when the block was developed. I wondered why I smelled water, as if I was at a lake, when I began digging. It wasn't until much later that I learned about the swamp.

Lots of double digging, compost, and the garden became prolific with great soil, so much so that every little seedling that drops from the 4 junk tree widow makers in the yard next door sprouts, and grows, and grows and grows.
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The only thing I see them doing is using a bobcat to grade the plots as the lay the foundation.

As far as if they put anything down before laying the sod in the front, I don't know. The landscaper who put on the sprinklers and sod in the front, would not call us back re the backyard so I called another company. I will find out more Monday as I have sketched my design plan with the need for the soil to be raised by the fence line as the neighbors sprinklers keep about 3' out from the dense very wet. My plan will is to have a flowerbed the width of the patio about 3' wide but it will have be filled in and mounded with pavers around it. It all depends on $$$.
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Sharyn, I hope that the builder had a compost/topsoil mix before laying sod. That will help for many years. You could still topdress it.
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SharyM, I'm afraid gardening may be a big challenge for you in a newly built house, builders tend to remove all the topsoil and you may only have a couple of inches over poor fill. It may be worth it to bring in a truckload of good soil in addition to other soil amendments in any areas you hope to use for anything other than grass.
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I think color of hydrangeas are related to whether the soil is alkaline or acidic. I think alkaline is for blue, if I am wrong I am sure someone here will correct me.
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I'll chime in to agree about adding lots of organic matter to the poor soil. Our local gardening writer goes nuts every fall when people rake and bag the leaves for trash instead of using them in the garden, hating to see such good organic matter go to waste.
I also remember my mom putting bricks at the base of her hydrangeas to change the color of the blooms. Red bricks would change the blooms from blue to pink as I remember, though someone could tell me differently
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I think we have a loam/clay mixture here on Idaho. I will ask the landscaper on Monday. Mulch is a must for us and compost I think, lol!!
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AliBoBali, CWillie's right. Organic matter needs to be added to provide tilth to the soil and counteract/break up the heaviness of the clay.

Double digging is extremely helpful, but if you have a strong back and want to try it, start with a small area first.

Mulch (dried lawn clippings, dried last year's leaves) can also help by slowing down soil dry out.

And earthworms are a big help as well. If you don't drink coffee and save the grounds, I understand that Starbucks gives away bags of coffee grounds to gardeners. Work them into the soil and the worms will come and provide some underground tilling for you.
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Ionehart, you must have a big garden since it takes so much work! I feel the same as you do, time spent there may tire the muscles but it refreshes the soul :)
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It doesn't matter if it is sand or clay, the only way to improve poor soil is adding organic matter, lots and lots of it: compost, manure, peat moss, whatever you have available. Soil organisms are busy breaking it down, so you need more every year. A nice deep organic mulch can be the icing on top.
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I have a question for any gardening types here that would care to weigh in. I recently planted some small 3' tall hydrangea bushes in the front flower bed. The dirt in that flower bed is a lot of clay. It's very clumpy, not porous. I tilled it all a couple of years back and I added fill dirt and garden soil to make it a better earth but when I planted the hydrangeas, it's like all the dirt is gone and it's back to being clay. Anyone have experience working with a clay soil for planting? What's a good way to change the texture for the better? I was thinking that adding mulch and tilling it in might be a good idea. Anything that keeps the clay from getting too compacted.
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They say there are good and healing properties in dirt, and I believe them. I have always felt better working in yard, digging in dirt...even just sitting in the sun watching the hub work! Hehe! Really, both of us have always used our yard, gardens as therapy. We specifically tell mom too those are our times. With this heat we pretty much need to water every day at her place and ours. She thinks we should just follow her schedule but Ive had to tell her several times we need to water and weed, etc at our home for three hours a day. When we were having to spend night w. her, we would come by still to do our things. The trees, vegetables, flowers are owed that time. Mom is well enuff to take care now of her watering but so far she hasnt. So hub does both places (she lives few miles from us...we go daily and do this and many other things for her) hub says hes now doing it enjoying things growing and blooming as he doesnt want to see it die as mom wont do it prolly. Its like a mental and emotional well being INVESTMENT we have made w the gardening and so far its one thing we havent let go lacking. Hmmm the house tho and my own selfcare has really gone begging since mom needs me. Ive gained ton of weight and so has laundry pile and desk pile!!! So...thank God for flowers still blooming, tomatoes ripening, compost rottenning, and birds trying to eat all my peaches (rushed to get rolls of birdnetting in midst of doing for mother!)
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Puncturvine is new to me, and after checking wiki I'm glad it doesn't grow here. At least not yet, but it seems I read about a new invasive species or two popping up every year. The emerald ash borer has completely decimated local trees, every year we get an alert about giant hogweed, there is a big push to educate landowners about phragmates control, and just recently I've read about freshwater jellyfish in local lakes.
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Sorry, the Trumpet vines had me stuck, then I realized I could use the puncturevines to cut the trumpets.

The main trumpet is huge. Probably 12 feet tall, three or four vines braided together. Dang things they are coming up all over the yard. Have pruned many o u t, but they will be back. And the puncturevines poor Macy's feet. I pull them s I fine them. Walk the yard with my work gloves. Those things are really nasty!
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This Spring I borrowed a little reel lawn mower from my sister-in-law because I wanted to see if it was a practical option. (Well, I guess she told me she didn't want it back so it is really a gift.) I LOVE it, it is almost fun to be able to cut the grass without fiddling with gas and exhaust fumes and noise. Good exercise too, and really no harder to push than a gas mower.
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Glad, they'll soon be back. But you'll feel meanly better for doing it.
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Hear hear!
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SusanA43,
Are you locked out again, leaving your friends? Your messages box is closed, hoping you are okay, and know that you are missed!

Also, Garden Artist, originator of this thread, glad to see you returning lately!

It's okay to come and go, but so nice to keep in touch with the old gang.

HELLO!
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How big are these trumpet vines? Little seedlings maybe, but full sized rambling vines probably have a root system to match. No harm trying though.
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Any truth to boiling water killing trumpet vines? Has anyone tried it?
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Susan, please don't use herbicide! I cringe when I read about toxics for use in the garden. I've found easier ways to kill them.

Grow morning glories and twine them all around the bark. They choke the tree and prevent it from getting air. Or strip the bark and grow the MGs then, winding them around the bark.

Stump killing is necessary too. I usually dig out around the stumps, strip the bark, and again, use morning glories to kill the rest.

I discovered that MGs do double duty as beautiful flowers as well as junk tree eradicators. And what could be lovelier than those pretty little flowers?
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The key to getting ahead of manitoba maple seedlings (box elders to you) is to be ever vigilant and root them out when they are under 1 year old, after that the roots just live on forever. We had one that was cut off at the ground annually for 20 years.
I don't hate the big trees though, the grow fast, make good shade and the leaves are small enough that raking isn't always necessary. Don't get me started on Norway Maples though....
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Gardening whine today: Boxelder trees and their never-ending "volunteers" that show up everywhere.

Today (and every year) I pulled out my handy-dandy saw and cut out a huge pile of Boxelder saplings that keep invading my mom's lilacs. They just love to come right up through the center of the clump of lilacs, where they're hard to reach to cut down. Thought I'd gotten them all, then came back inside and looked out the window - nope - there are at least 2 more in the center of the lilacs, and about 8-10' tall. The trunks on those suckers are about 2" in diameter. Also cut one out of the flower bed that keeps coming back every year - the roots to that one go under the garage, so I can't yank them out. Then I trimmed the new sprouts that were coming out of the sides of the big Boxelder trees themselves.

I'd get rid of the big trees, but after the great pine tree purge of 2014, they're the only large shade trees left on that side of the yard.

I've got to get some herbicide that I can paint on the cut ends of the brush I've cut to get it to stop growing back. Most of them are in locations that I can't get to in order to dig out the roots, and I don't want to kill the surrounding plant life.
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Trumpet vines are incredibly invasive. Unless roundup has a formula for woody plants, regular roundup is formulated for soft green tissue. That doesn't mean you can can't try it. However, using a chemical that is for woody stems is probably going to work better. I would talk with a nursery specialist at your local nursery. Good luck.
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